Working off the name Spirit, legendary Carnival designer Joe Farcus got inspired to celebrate the "creative spirit" on this ship by serving up what looks to us like every design style he could think of. So as you go from one public area to another, you can bask in the glory of Gothic, the grace of Art Deco, the exotic ambiance of Chinese, the thrill of Egyptian and so on. Carnival Spirit, which introduced a whole new class for Carnival (its sister ships are Carnival Legend, Carnival Pride and Carnival Miracle), shares its basic design with CostaAtlantica and offers all the best of earlier Carnival vessels -- a water slide, numerous bars, extensive children's facilities. It also introduced some firsts for Carnival: a fabulous supper club and a wedding chapel. Here are some of our favorite onboard offerings:
Nouveau Supper Club. Look up the ship's soaring 9-deck atrium and you'll see a striking red stained glass dome. That's part of the fine alternative dining venue on top of the Spirit -- and tops with us. The service charge of $30 per person is worth every penny.
The Wedding Chapel. This light-wood paneled space with its angel fresco feels important and it should. Real weddings are conducted here by the ship's captain when Carnival Spirit is in Canadian waters (he is even authorized to marry same-sex couples). It's also the venue for vow renewals.
The Gym. Even those who are not exercise nuts will appreciate this facility, tiered like a Roman amphitheater so that you get a view of the ocean from every piece of state-of-the-art equipment. If heavy sweating is not your thing, sit in the hot tub in the center of the gym and enjoy watching other people pump it up.
Carnival Spirit feels large, but not particularly crowded, and despite a plethora of rooms it's fairly easy to find your way around. It would be near to impossible to be bored on this vessel -- in fact, you'd have to make a big effort to hit all the bars and lounges. Our very favorite hangout spot on a recent sailing was the Deco Bar, a comfy corner near the disco. You can smoke cigars at the Deco, and a jazz trio plays nightly -- plus, they make a mean martini. We even caught the captain hanging out here one night.
The 1,300-seat, two-deck Empire dining room is done up in Napoleonic splendor, the ceiling domes painted with murals and hung with crystal chandeliers. Even the large portholes are trimmed in gold and the grand circular staircase decorated with a sculpture of Napoleon at his coronation. Flanking the entrances are pilasters in the form of female statues. You'll either love it or find it over the top (it grew on us). Two dinner seatings are featured. There are tables for two, four and six, and fewer than usual for eight or more (intimacy was obviously the goal here). The food was good to excellent (try the duck and on Alaska cruises go for the fresh salmon) and service was friendly, although not necessarily sharp. Suggestion: Get a seat near the glass rail on the second tier and you can spy on your fellow passengers below. Breakfast and lunch are also served in the dining room for those who want waiter service (if ribs are on the menu go for it -- they're yummy).
The reservations-only, 156-seat Nouveau Supper Club, at the top of the ship, features aged USDA prime beef including a 14-ounce New York strip, an 18-ounce classic porterhouse, an 18-ounce prime rib and a 9-ounce filet mignon, plus other dishes, for a service fee of $30 per person. The service and experience are fantastic (although the space feels a tad cavernous for such an intimate experience) and couples who choose can hit the dance floor to the music performed by a live duo. For another $29 you can even get an order of caviar. Expect dinner here to be your nighttime entertainment (it takes several luxurious hours).
The two-level La Playa Grill is a casual alternative for buffet-style breakfasts and lunches. The international food station at lunch features a different cuisine each day including Japanese and Indian and there's also a daily deli station and rotisserie; breakfast includes a made-to-order omelet station. At night, the offering is a no-fee Seaview Bistro, perfect for those who want a quick bite without the formality of the dining room. The pizzeria is open 24 hours a day (and the Caesar salad here is excellent). For late-night munchies there is the midnight buffet, and complimentary 24-hour room service is also available (from a limited menu).
Carnival Spirit's Artists Lobby is the main hub of the vessel, decorated in Art Deco style with lots of color, gigantic murals of soaring spirits and famous art icons (a little Monet here, a little Gauguin there), rich wood, dark antique copper accents, two grand staircases, a bar with a dance floor, and the information and tour desks.
From there, walking from one public room to another feels a bit like going on a trip around the world. Egypt is in the show lounge. England is in the Chippendale Library, which features a mural of an English garden overlooking a traditional secretary and bookcases mounted on desks that hold 12 computer terminals offering Internet access (basic charge is 75 cents a minute, though packages are available offering savings for heavy users). France is in the Empire Room, and China is in the Shanghai Bar -- the ship's piano bar, done in a "Chinoise" style with walls covered in Chinese fabric and silk screens illuminated from behind. How fun is that? Loads. Love it or hate it, "wow" will be heard on this vessel.
With most of the public spaces located on two lower decks, passenger flow is excellent -- the public rooms are connected by a two-level promenade with a grand staircase leading from one level to the other. Other neat spaces include the two-deck disco done up in funky Gothic. On Alaska cruises, the captain can conduct weddings in the pretty Wedding Chapel (including for same sex couples) as long as the ship is in Canadian waters. Vow renewal ceremonies are also offered. Shoppers will enjoy the ship's large arcade, designed to look like an airport duty-free with separate areas for perfume, $10 bargains, fine jewelry and so forth. Elsewhere are five self-service launderettes (a wash is $1, a dry is $1; soap and softener are 50 cents each).
About 80 percent of the cabins are outside, and of those, 80 percent (624 cabins) offer balconies and a sitting area. All cabins feature attractive decor in pleasant, if a bit bland, earth tones; twin beds that convert to a king; color televisions showing first-run movies (for a fee of $8.99), a wall safe, a separate vanity area, a hairdryer and a phone.
A standard inside or outside cabin measures a decent 185 square ft. Suites (Categories 11 and 12) include separate dressing and sitting areas, a refrigerator, double sinks and a bathtub in the bathroom, and large balconies. Good design and soft lighting add to a feeling of spaciousness in interior staterooms (Category 4). Category 5A staterooms with French doors have obstructed views.
Carnival's nightlife is legendary, and if you come aboard ready to party, you will not be disappointed (but don't expect a big nighttime crowd on Alaska sailings when many passengers are so exhausted from shore excursions they go to bed early). The ship has 16 lounges and bars to suit every mood. The three-level Pharaoh's Palace, decorated with hieroglyphics, 20-ft. tall stone figures and sarcophagi inspired by the golden one of King Tut, sets the scene for Vegas-style revues. Seating is in comfortable high-back theater chairs.
The joint is also jumping at the Louis XIV Casino featuring 220 slots and tables for roulette/dice (1), blackjack (10) and poker (2). There are sing-alongs in the Shanghai Piano Bar, smooth jazz in Club Cool and disco in Dancin' (a two-tiered dance club with a two-story 20-by-20-ft. video wall with 48-inch monitors). The Champions sports bar offers big screen televisions for catching the big games. You can sip a cappuccino and people-watch in the Fountain Cafe on the promenade. You can smoke cigars and listen to decent jazz in the comfy Deco Bar. And for late-night entertainment, musical and comedy acts are presented in the Versailles Lounge.
The Grecian-inspired, Steiner-operated Nautica Spa incorporates Doric columns and hand-painted murals featuring a Greek vase motif and depictions of Olympic events. The two-level, 13,700-square-ft. oceanview facility, located forward on Decks 9 and 10, offers sauna, steam, beauty salon, one whirlpool (within the gym; there are four others aboard) and 10 treatment rooms for European-style therapies including Aroma Stone (using heated, scented oils and warm basalt stones). The decently sized aerobics room is mirrored so you can watch yourself sweat, and the gym, one of our favorites at sea, features a tiered design so from every piece of equipment you get ocean views.
The equipment includes 10 Quinton treadmills, 4 Stairmaster stair climbers, an assortment of Life Fitness cycles and elliptical machines, Keiser progressive resistance machines, and free weights. There's a jogging track (15 times around equals a mile) and three swimming pools, one of which is covered by a retractable dome for all-weather use (key in Alaska where it can be chilly). Kids get a separate splash pool and the young -- and young at heart -- can enjoy a spiral water slide. The ship offers a lot of open deck space for outdoor sunning as well.
The line's complimentary Camp Carnival program with activities for children ages 2 to 15 has its own "Fun House," a 2,400-square-ft. enclosed play area. Themed to the bottom of the sea, it has three areas connected by tunnels -- one area for crafts, a second one for computer games and a third one for games -- plus a video wall for movies and cartoons. One deck below is an arcade with video games and virtual reality-based games. An outdoor play area offers mini-basketball, jungle gyms and other playground equipment.
A children's wading pool and a corkscrew water slide are among the opportunities for kids to make a splash. Supervised activities are featured morning 'til night. Special on Alaska cruises are activities like creating totem poles and special kids-only lectures by naturalists discussing the region's sea, animal and plant life. Children's menus are featured in the main dining room and kids can dine with the counselors on Lido Deck one night each cruise. A Fountain Fun card, good for unlimited soft drinks, costs $19.95 for seven-day voyages. Babysitting is available from 10 p.m. until 3 a.m. at the Fun House ($5 for the first child and $3 for each additional child in the same family).
For one or two nights, a dark suit or formal attire is suggested -- with most men opting for suits. The dress code for the rest of the evenings ranges from a sport coat and tie to casual resort wear. For Alaska, layers, comfortable walking shoes and rain gear are recommended.
For one or two nights, a dark suit or formal attire is suggested -- with most men opting for suits. The dress code for the rest of the evenings ranges from sport coat and tie to resort wear. For Alaska, layers, comfortable walking shoes and rain gear are recommended.
Tips of $10 per person, per day are added to your shipboard account. A 15 percent gratuity is added to bar bills.
Acapulco
Language Spanish and - very little - English. The latter is most likely spoken in the big hotels.
Currency & Best Way to Get Money The Mexican peso although dollars are generally welcomed. ATM machines are ubiquitous.
Best Cocktail Ice cold chelada-beer and lemon juice on ice served in a salt-rimmed glass or a Coco Loco, which was said to have been created here.
Where You're Docked Acapulco's cruise terminal.
What's Nearby Not too much; the terminal offers basic services and a handful of tourist shops. Acapulco's old city is a ten minute walk from the cruise terminal.
Getting Around Taxis are plentiful; definitely make sure you negotiate the cost of your ride before getting in.
Watch Out For Be alert to petty crime.
In a Nutshell Acapulco, once one of Mexico's most glamorous cities, was the country's first resort town and is experiencing something of a renaissance. Acapulco's most enduring image? Its cliff divers.
Don't Miss Cliff Diving. Acapulco's infamous cliff divers perform off La Quebrada. Performance times vary (check with your ship's shore excursion desk). You can watch from the public area on the beach or, more comfortably, head for Plaza Las Glorias/El Mirado (Quebrada 74) which overlooks the cove, and enjoy it with a margarita in hand.
Beaches Revolcadero Beach is a gorgeous stretch of white sand that fronts the Pacific rather than the bay (though currents can be strong). Great for beach-bumming and surfing.
For active types: Check out Caleta and Caletilla beaches, which front the bay. Here you'll find Magico Mundo Marino (Caleta Beach, open daily from 9 a.m. - 7 p.m.); it's an aquarium and water park plus offers water sports equipment for rent, restaurants and a ferry to Roqueta Island.
Speaking of Roqueta Island, it's a laid back beach with a small zoo, places to eat, and a lighthouse; glass bottom boats leave every 15 minutes from Caletilla Beach.
Hotel Beaches: Some of the most fabulous beaches are in front of Acapulco's hotels. The swankiest area is Punta Diamante, which is on the Pacific; hotels there include the Acapulco Princess and the Quinta Real.
Been There, Done That Not interested in the beach? Check out Old Acapulco. Plaza Alvarez is at its center and cafes and shops line its edges. Sites include the cathedral Nuestra Senora de la Soledad - note the Byzantine towers - and you can climb or take a taxi to El Mirador, which is a great lookout point. Another intriguing historic spot is El Fuerte de San Diego, an 18th century fortress that now houses the Museo Historico de Acapulco (Calle Hornitos and Morelos, Tuesday - Sunday 10 a.m. - 6:30 p.m.).
Shopping The Mercado Parazal (also known as the Mercado de Artesanias) is on Calle Velazquez de Leon downtown. Lined with stalls, this is a good place to find souvenirs. Power shopping (i.e. well known boutiques) can be found in the Zona Dorado (Golden Zone) which runs along Costera Miguel Aleman.
Lunching Familiar Mexican and American mainstays like Carlos 'n Charlie's (Costera Miguel Aleman 112, daily 1 p.m. - midnight) and Hard Rock Cafe (Costera Miguel Aleman 37, daily noon - 1 a.m.) are easy options.
At the Beach: At Playa Caletilla, try the Sushi Marina Club (Boca Chica Hotel, daily, breakfast lunch and dinner) for seafood and sushi. At Punta Diamonte, among numerous choices you could try Gourmet (Quinta Real Hotel, daily 7 a.m. - midnight).
Along the Zona Dorado: El Faro (Costera Miguel Aleman 75, lunch and dinner daily) specializes in seafood amidst a sophisticated atmosphere. La Catrina (Costera Miguel Aleman 74, open Thursday - Sunday from 1 p.m.) is a Mexican cantina.
Staying in Touch Cybercafe (Costera Miguel Aleman 93).
Sunset Over the Pacific
Overview
The tranquil town of Zihuatanejo, located on the Mexican Riviera, was largely neglected after the Spanish Conquest as the cities of Puerto Vallarta to the south and Mazatlan to the north were developed. With its ancient roots as a matriarchal society (the original name, Cihuatlan, means "place governed by women"), Zihua -- as it's affectionately known by locals and frequent visitors -- remained a sleepy fishing village until fairly recently. Inhabited by a few families, visited only by intrepid fishermen who moored in its protected harbor in the evenings, Zihua's charm and beauty was mostly undiscovered until the Mexican government decided to create a tourist paradise out of a nearby spit of land known as Ixtapa.
No building, by city code, is allowed to top four stories in Zihua, in order to preserve the "village look." Ixtapa, in contrast, has plenty of high-rise hotels and trendy shops. Zihua is a city with a municipal government; Ixtapa, a "created resort," is actually "governed" by a resort management company which oversees everything from traffic lights to law enforcement. Together they provide "two vacations in one."
At certain times of the year, while sailing to or from Zihuatanejo Bay, you might be lucky enough to see humpback whales as they migrate to their breeding grounds. And at other times, you might be able to assist in the preservation of the Green Ridley sea turtles as they lay their eggs in the sand along the bay's beaches. The ecological programs of the region include building pens along the beach where the eggs are placed until they can mature.
The nicest thing about a stop in the area is that there isn't much to see or do here, except to enjoy the natural charms of the locale. Young, hip, active and muy Americano, Ixtapa is where you'll find most of the water-sports vendors, the ubiquitous Carlos and Charlies, Senor Frogs and the other shops and watering holes that cruisers have come to expect. Zihua, on the other hand, is home to fishermen, craftsmen, small waterfront bars and cafes, and a more relaxed atmosphere.
Language Spanish is the official language of Mexico. Most of the shopkeepers in Zihua and almost everyone in Ixtapa speaks and understands some English, so communication is not a major problem.
Currency & Best Way to Get Money The Mexican peso is the official currency of Mexico, but the U.S. dollar is widely accepted. Note, though, that the symbol for the U.S. dollar ($) is also used for the peso, so make sure you know which currency you are being charged for goods and services. The peso is currently trading at about 10 to one U.S. dollar.
Zihuatanejo has a few banks with ATMs in its "downtown" area, about a 15-minute walk from the dock. Ixtapa has several. Credit and debit cards are accepted in most locations for purchases.
Best Souvenir Local pottery is an exceptional buy, as are rugs and hand-woven hammocks. There is an open market just a few steps from the tender dock in Zihua, and there are many upscale shops and boutiques in Ixtapa.
Where You're Docked Cruise ships anchor in Zihuatanejo Bay and tender to the small dock in Zihua; walking to the shops of Zihuatanejo is an easy three minutes; Ixtapa is approximately three miles away and is accessible by bus, taxi or shore excursion.
Getting Around You don't need transportation to take advantage of Zihuatanejo, as everything you need is within walking distance. If you want to explore Ixtapa, taxis are readily available and not very expensive (about $4 each way). Several shore excursions feature bus transportation to Ixtapa. Buses have the destination listed on the front so you can easily tell which one to board. There are water taxis to the little snorkeling beaches of Las Gatas and La Ropa.
Hanging Around If you aren't taking an excursion or going off to the upscale shopping and hotels of Ixtapa, Zihuatanejo provides some fabulous "hanging around" spots. Just walk to the end of the tender dock, turn right on the Paseo del Pescador, and you'll see several small bars and bodegas fronting the beach. There's also an Internet Cafe and some shops. For serious shopping, keep walking to the end of the path that fronts the beach, turn left and walk about three blocks to the open marketplace.
In Ixtapa you can hang out at any of the beaches in front of the hotels or at any of the bars, or simply shop, shop, shop.
Don't Miss El Faro: This lighthouse, located at the end of Las Gatas beach, is about a 15-minute walk down a flagstone path from the Las Gatas Beach Club. The view is spectacular and includes the small islands in front of Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo Bay.
Mercado de los Artisans: This open market in Zihuatanejo has hundreds of stalls with crafts people selling everything from blankets to ornate silver items. Unlike the shops in Ixtapa, real bargains can be found here.
Museo Arqueologico de la Costa Grande: Located at the end of the malecon (beachfront street) in Zihuatanejo, the museum houses artifacts from as early as 3000 B.C. Open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Monday through Saturday; admission is about $1.
Sportsfishing: Any avid fisherman will love the region's incredible boasting opportunities. Just a few minutes at the dock in mid-afternoon will show you what is available as the small guideboats return from their excursions with gigantic marlin and sailfish. In fact, there are two hanging hooks, one on either side of the dock, for photo ops with your catch.
Playa La Ropa: Gentle surf and a family atmosphere surround the main swimming beach of Zihuatanejo. If you have time after a shore excursion, or if you just want a kicked-back day, this beach is accessible via a footpath (about half an hour's walk from Zihua) or by taxi (about 5 minutes and $3).
Playa Las Gatas: Accessible by water taxi from the main dock (about $3 each way), this protected inlet is also a great snorkeling spot. Have lunch or a cold one at one of the many beachfront restaurants or enramadas.
Playa el Palmar: The main beach in Ixtapa, it's nicely groomed and usually crowded with hotel guests as it runs along the strip that houses the high-rise hotels.
Been There, Done That Troncones: Located about 16 miles north of Zihua, this rugged coastline is known as one of the best surfing spots in all of Mexico. It's also a site of sea turtle nests, virgin beaches and tidepools. Above the beaches are rugged mountains; a short hike up the mountainside takes you to La Majahua caverns and the zipline platforms, where you can soar above the jungle on rope harnesses.
Barra de Petosi: This seaside village is home to the region's most important ecological preserve, the wildlife sanctuary lagoon. Located approximately 15 miles south of Zihuatanejo, it also boasts the balmy beach of Playa Larga with over nine miles of unspoiled coastline, and family-run beachfront restaurants (enramadas) where you can enjoy fresh fish and a beer. Horseback riding in the surf is also available here.
Lunching There are many, many lunching spots in both Zihua and Ixtapa, depending on the food and atmosphere you desire. Take your pick of an upscale restaurant in a five-star resort in Ixtapa, or a little "enramada" hut along the beach at Playa Larga or a small botega open to the Playa Principal in Zihuatanejo. Some picks:
La Rana Rene, Sirena Gorda or El Mediterraneo (Paseo del Pescador): Located facing the Playa Principal and Zihuatanejo Bay, these three restaurants are open to the sea breezes, a great view of the fishing boats coming in, and your ship at anchor. It's a perfect spot for fish tacos, fresh guacamole and a couple of Dos XX or Coronas.
El Pueblito (Ave. Morelos #249, Zihuatanejo): This local Zihua eatery featuring regional specialties -- pozole on Thursdays and barbacoa on Sundays -- gives you the taste of real Mexico. Try their marrow soup or Lengua con Mole.
The Inn at Manzanillo Bay (Troncones Beach): If you're going to Troncones for the day, have lunch here on a breezy porch overlooking the ocean. True gourmet fare is served, via a classically trained chef, who incorporates local produce, seafood and recipes into his creations.
El Galeon (Plaza Marina Ixtapa): In Ixtapa's small boat harbor, housed in a replica of an ancient sailing galleon, this restaurant and bar is very popular. The food is eclectic with some regional specialties.
Casa Morelos: Located in La Puerta shopping center in Ixtapa, this restaurant serves fine regional specialties.
La Perla: On Las Ropas beach, this restaurant serves only fresh oysters, tuna, dorado, octopus and other daily catches plus fresh meat and poultry. Palapas and umbrellas line the beach, too. But this place really comes alive on weekends because of its satellite television sports bar, where locals and gringos meet to cheer their favorite teams.
Staying in Touch Internet cafes are abundant in Mexico and this area is no exception. Reasonable prices ($3 or so for 15 minutes) are common; most locations have ISDN or DSL lines. Ixtapa hotels have centers in their lobbies, most of which cost more than the local outlets in Zihuatanejo.
Cyber Internet Cafe (Plaza los Patios #105): Open Monday through Friday 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and then from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m., Saturday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. only.
Xtapa Connection (Ixtapa Plaza #15): Also serving coffee and cold drinks; half an hour of service is about $5.
Casa de Larga Distancia: Long-distance service in Zihua, not far from the dock at the corner of Calle Pedro Ascencio and Calle H. Galeana. Make phone calls, check e-mail, send and receive faxes.
Shore Excursions Zipline Adventure: A fabulous experience for the fit and unafraid! Take a motorcoach to Troncones, where you will hike for about an hour to the Majuahual Caves and the zipline, which has you soaring (in a harness) above the treetops to three different platforms. Children must be at least 8 to participate. Average cost: $125 per person, kids and adults.
Deep Sea Fishing: Plenty of cruise vacationers who love to fish bring their own rod and reel for exactly this activity. And when you see the fishermen returning with their catch in the early afternoon, you'll know why. Huge marlin, sailfish and bonita are to be found in these waters; the small boats leave from the dock early. Equipment is included. Average cost: $120, adults and children.
Sail and Snorkel: Board either a schooner or catamaran for a sail around Zihuatanejo Bay and to Manzanillo Bay, where you can snorkel and play on the beach. Light lunch is served and there is an open bar on the return for domestic Mexican beer and tequila. Average cost: $70 adult. $45 children.
Beach Break: Take a water taxi to Las Gatas beach, have lunch and relax in the sun, or rent snorkeling equipment. The return trip is at your leisure; the water taxi departs every half hour or so. Average cost: $65 adults, $45 children.
Ixtapa Resort Tour: Take a motorcoach to the planned community of Ixtapa; all of the hotels are lined up along the beach. This tour gives a great overview of the area and allows for some shopping and beverage breaks. Approximately $27 - $32 per person.
MANZANILLO, MEXICO
Highly praised for it's diverse dive sites and exciting sportfishing, Manzanillo, Mexico, is a resort town of wide, soft-sand beaches and groves of palm trees. With its balmy weather, year-round ocean breezes and verdant mountains rising along the shoreline, this is a perfect spot for vacationers looking to relax by taking in a round of golf, doing some deep-sea fishing or just basking in the warmth of a sun-kissed beach.
Nouveau Supper Club. Look up the ship's soaring 9-deck atrium and you'll see a striking red stained glass dome. That's part of the fine alternative dining venue on top of the Spirit -- and tops with us. The service charge of $30 per person is worth every penny.
